It's not hard to find this little restaurant -- it's the one with crowds milling about on the sidewalk. If you can stand the wait -- as you undoubtedly will, since reservations aren't accepted -- then you'll get to sample chef Roberto Trevino's Latin-Asian cuisine. (For the best chance of avoiding a line, come when it opens at 6 PM.) The platos (plates) are meant to be shared, so order several for your tables. Favorites include pork-and-plantain dumplings with an orange dipping sauce, smoked-salmon pizza with wasabi salsa, and lamb spareribs with a tamarind glaze. The dining room, all done up in Chinese red, resembles an opium den. Reservations not accepted. AE, MC, V. Closed Sun. No lunch.

A handful of tables spill out onto the sidewalk at this unpretentious place overlooking Plaza Colón. There's something on the menu for everyone, from turkey breast in a mustard-curry sauce to salmon in a citrus sauce. There are even several good vegetarian dishes, including tofu in a mushroom sauce. Inside is a small bar, one of the few places in Puerto Rico that serves draft beer. AE, MC, V.

You can't miss the gorgeous stained glass on the facade of this local landmark, which was established in 1903. In the window you'll see piles of freshly baked pastries. Inside there's a long counter with salmon-colored stools and a wall lined with booths of the same interesting shade. It's extremely popular in the morning -- particularly on Sunday -- but it's open until 8:30 for lunch and dinner. All this even though the food is only average and the grumpy waiters give the appearance of having worked here since the day it opened. AE, MC, V.

For the ultimate tropical dining experience, make a beeline here, the only city restaurant that offers outdoor seating on the sand, just steps away from the ocean, though it's also possible to dine indoors in air-conditioned comfort. The contemporary Caribbean menu is as memorable as the alfresco setting; daily specials might include blackened salmon glazed with a Mandarin honey sauce or Jamaican jerk shrimp and coconut corn arepas with guava coulis. AE, D, MC, V. 

In the heart of Isla Verde, this restaurant attracts a young, hip crowd. The menu is something old, something new. Puerto Rican favorites are jazzed up, so that the skirt steak is served with pumpkin risotto and the grilled pork is covered with a guava glaze. The bar is a great place for a beer in the afternoon or for cocktails before heading to the clubs. AE, MC, V.

A portrait of independence leader Pedro Albizu Campos adorns the building's facade, a holdover from the days when a group of artists turned the crumbling walls of this house into the Museo sin Techo ("Roofless Museum"). Today it does have a roof, as well as a tropical-themed dining room serving radically delicious local cuisine. Look for the pumpkin and macadamia-nut ravioli or the grilled lamb on sugarcane skewers. There's an excellent wine shop on the premises, and on Tuesday and Thursday evening there's a free tasting upstairs. AE, D, MC, V. Closed Mon. 

Sanjuaneros have favored this casual, family-run restaurant for years. The conch ceviche and chicken fricassee are among the specialties on the menu of comida criollo dishes. The back porch is filled with plants, and the dining room is filled with fanciful depictions of life on the street outside. The ever-present owner, Pedro J. Ruiz, is filled with the desire to ensure that everyone is happy. Reservations not accepted. AE, MC, V. 

Chinese restaurants can be found everywhere in San Juan, but this one is worth a special trip. Don't be disappointed by the dining room, which has little personality. Every bit of creativity goes into the food. As you might guess, it's heavy on the seafood, with dishes like fish with ginger and scallion or fried shrimp with crispy minced garlic. There are plenty of meat dishes as well, including shredded duck with spicy bean sauce. (If you can't find it on the menu, look under the heading for chicken.) There's a dim sum menu with nearly 40 different choices, and a sushi bar with enough selections to put other places to shame. Make sure to take a look at the beautiful view over the Laguna del Condado. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

Chef Wilo Benet is clearly the star here -- a plasma television lets diners watch everything that's going on in his kitchen. The Puerto Rico native artfully fuses Caribbean cuisine with influences from around the world. Veal is served in a swirl of sweet-pea couscous, for example, and beef medallions are covered with crumbled blue cheese and a red-wine reduction. The regularly changing menu is a feast for the eye as well as the palate, and might include perfectly shaped tostones stuffed with oven-dried tomatoes, or mofongo topped with saffron shrimp. A changing selection of paintings wraps around the minimalist dining room -- the restaurant is, after all, inside a museum. It's in Santurce, just south of Condado. AE, MC, V. Closed Sun. and Mon. 

The dining room spills onto a terrace fronting the ocean, whose the steady breezes are as much a part of the dreamy scene as the muted-orange lighting and cream walls. This place is all about sensual pleasures, so it's no surprise that the descriptions of many of the dishes sound a bit risqué. (A plate with three types of marinated fish is named, quite simply, "Threesome.") Appetizers such as roasted pumpkin soup with lemongrass foam and crispy wild mushroom dumplings are seductive but overpriced. Artful entrées include chicken breast stuffed with eggplant puree and a pan-seared sea bass with sea-urchin butter sauce. AE, MC, V.

This restaurant is not a shack -- but it's close. It's in a delightfully ramshackle building on a one-lane road winding through the hills. The dining room is inches from the pavement, but it's unlikely a single car will pass by while you're enjoying your meal. Chicken, beef, and seafood are grilled to tender perfection. The restaurant is justifiably famous for its weekly barbecue night with a steel band, but there's usually some good jazz or island rhythms on the sound system. The restaurant is on Route 995, off Route 201. Reservations essential. AE, MC, V.

With black-and-white floor tiles, wood-beamed ceiling, and floral-print curtains, this two-story restaurant evokes provincial France. It has been under the same management since 1969, and with all that experience the service is smooth. Daily specials augment a menu of stellar French classics, including breast of duck with a cassis glaze and veal with a mustard cream sauce. If you want to go all out, there's the huge chateaubriand for two. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. No lunch. 

This little gem sits square in the middle of Old San Juan's up-and-coming restaurant row, known locally as SoFo (South Fortaleza Street). The menu, which combines Indian and Caribbean flavors, has traditional dishes such as tandoori chicken and inventive surprises like beef tenderloin in a casava purée. The jewel-tone interior invites you to linger, and many patrons do so for an after-dinner puff on an Asian water pipe. AE, MC, V.

Dating from 1848, La Mallorquina is thought to be the island's oldest restaurant. The menu is heavy on such basic Puerto Rican and Spanish fare as asopao (a stew with rice and seafood) and paella, but the atmosphere is what really recommends the place. Friendly, nattily attired staffers zip between tables against peach-colored walls and beneath the whir of ceiling fans. AE, MC, V. Closed Sun.

Burritos -- 15 different kinds, including the non-traditional "soy meat" -- are the specialties of this casual Mexican restaurant. Combo plates let you taste a bit of everything, from tacos to enchiladas. Everything is washed down with oversized margaritas, of course. Those who eschew tequila can try the house sangria or a vintage from the unusually varied wine list. AE, MC, V. 

The smell of chef Jesus Ramiro's imaginative Castilian cooking fills this sea-green dining room. Ramiro is also known for his artistic presentation: flower-shaped peppers filled with fish mousse, a mix of seafood caught under a vegetable net, roast duckling with sugarcane honey, and, if you can stand more, a kiwi dessert sculpted to resemble twin palms. AE, DC, MC, V.

You could make a meal of the small dishes that dominate the menu at this tapas restaurant. You won't go wrong ordering the sweet sausage in brandy or the turnovers stuffed with lobsters and passing them around the table. If you're not into sharing, there are five different kinds of paella that arrive on huge plates. There's a long, lively bar inside; one dining area overlooks a pleasant courtyard, whereas the other takes in the action along Calle Cristo. Even if you have dinner plans elsewhere, consider stopping here for a nightcap. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

Hung with elaborate lanterns, this dining room is a fanciful version of the Far East. The first thing you'll notice is the sound of meats and vegetables sizzling on the large teppanyaki tables. The chefs here know they're on stage, and they perform with a flourish. Hunan and Szechuan specialties round out the menu. Despite the abundance of fresh fish, it's not so easy to find a sushi bar in this part of Puerto Rico. The one here, with a seemingly endless array of dishes, is excellent. Reservations essential. AE, D, DC, MC, V. No lunch Mon.-Sat. 

Here is a bar and grill that doesn't fall too much into either category. The open-air kitchen prepares any number of unusual items, from king-crab sandwiches to chicken-and-basil wraps. The bar, also open to the elements, serves a mean margarita. Happy hour sometimes starts dangerously early -- at 10 AM on Saturday. The deck is a great place to watch the novice surfers wipe out on the nearby beach. MC, V.

Those who think coffee can never be too strong should make a beeline to Kasalta, which has an amazing inky black brew that will knock your socks off. Make your selection from the display cases full of luscious pastries and other tempting treats. Walk up to the counter and order a sandwich, such as the savory Cubano, or such items as the meltingly tender octopus salad. AE, MC, V.

Tables on the terrace are hard to come by at this restaurant, one of the most popular in Condado. That's fine, because the glassed-in dining room is even more comfortable and has exactly the same view. Cuban classics such as ropa vieja (meat cooked so slowly that it becomes tender shreds) seamlessly blend local dishes with imaginative presentation. The shrimp has a coconut-and-ginger sauce, the halibut filet one of mango and orange liqueur. The restaurant claims to use the "original" recipe for its mojito, Cuba's tasty rum, lime, and mint drink. Live Latin jazz is played many nights. AE, MC, V. Closed Mon. 

Despite its name, this family-run restaurant at Marina Puerto Real is also a good spot for beef and chicken. But if you want to see what people from all around the island are raving about, stick with the seafood. The specialty here is pieces of lobster, simmered with onions, tomatoes, and red peppers. The grilled and sautéed fresh fish, from tuna to red snapper, is also a winner. You can't miss the restaurant, as it's inside a two-story house painted a vivid shade of pink. Reservations not accepted. AE, MC, V. Closed Wed.

Loud and lively, this place is intent on making sure everyone is having a good time. You're likely to strike up a conversation with the bartender as you enjoy a passion-fruit cocktail or with the couple at the next table in the covered courtyard. Something about the atmosphere -- ear-splitting salsa music and murals of swaying palm trees -- makes connecting easy. The menu has contemporary variations of Caribbean classics. You might start with mouthwatering crabcakes or tamarind-barbecued ribs, followed by blackened tuna in a dark rum sauce or seared sea bass with lobster, leek, and scallop confit. Reservations not accepted. AE, DC, MC, V.

A well-traveled menu has earned Barú a solid reputation among sanjuaneros, so it's often crowded. The dishes, all served in medium-sized portions so you can order several and share, range from Middle Eastern to Asian to Caribbean. Favorites include oysters in a soy-citrus sauce, risotto with green asparagus, and carpaccio made from beef, tuna, or salmon. More substantial fare includes filet mignon with horseradish mashed potatoes and pork ribs with a ginger-tamarind glaze. The dining room, in a beautifully renovated colonial house, is dark and mysterious. AE, MC, V. Closed Mon. No lunch. 

When the stars are out, there could hardly be a more romantic setting than this restaurant in the Anchor's Village Marina. The casual atmosphere belies the elegance of Daniel Vasse's culinary creations. His French country-style dishes are some of the best on the island. The Catalan-style bouillinade, full of fresh fish and bursting with the flavor of a white garlic sauce, is exceptional. Pair it with a bottle from the extensive wine cellar. Sunday brunch, with its seemingly endless seafood bar, draws people from all over the island. Reservations essential. AE, MC, V. Closed Tues. No lunch Mon.-Thurs.

A great selection of beers -- 26, to exact, including the locally brewed Medalla -- make this a popular late-night spot. Just as appealing is the dimly lighted courtyard that gives the place its name. The menu consists mostly of steaks and seafood, but there are plenty of opportunities to sample Puerto Rican fare. Save room for the flan, which melts in your mouth. There's entertainment (usually a guitarist singing old standards) every night but Sunday. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

You can dine inside, enveloped in the soft glow cast by dozens of candles, or slide outside to the terrace for a meal under the stars. This northern Italian restaurant, one of the many at the El Conquistador Resort, is among the best on the island's eastern coast. It's certainly one of the most elegant, with crisp linens and delicate crystal. Start with the minestrone soup -- it's a guaranteed winner -- and follow it with fettuccine tossed with grilled shrimp or one of the other pasta or dishes. Reservations essential. AE, D, DC, MC, V. No lunch. 

Choose from the waterfront terrace or one of the enclosed dining rooms at this longtime favorite east of Ponce in Las Cucharas. No matter where you sit, you'll have a view of the ocean. The main attraction is the freshly caught seafood, ranging from lobster and crab to salmon and red snapper. To indulge yourself, try the shrimp wrapped in bacon -- a specialty of the house. There's also a wide range of chicken and beef dishes. From the expansive wine cellar you can select more than 25 different wines by the glass. There's live music on Friday and Saturday nights. AE, MC, V.

This fine seafood establishment in the middle of Condado's restaurant row is surprisingly affordable. The grilled seafood platter is the specialty, but there are plenty of other excellent dishes, including mahimahi in caper sauce and codfish in green sauce. The friendly staff makes you feel genuinely welcome. AE, D, MC, V.

This popular restaurant is across from its namesake, so it's no surprise that the seafood is the freshest around. Start with a plate of fried calamari, served lightly breaded and accompanied by a spicy sauce, then move on to the broiled lobster tail or grilled red snapper in a garlic sauce. Locals swear by the paella, which is loaded with scallops, clams, shrimp, and squid. The restaurant is just west of Playa Escambrón. AE, MC, V. Closed Mon. 

A bit more refined than some of its neighbors, this restaurant actually sits on a wooden platform positioned above the sand. Even nicer is the upstairs deck that lets you gaze at the ocean instead of the parking lot. The grilled steak served with chimichurri is as good as it gets, and juicy barbecued chicken with tamarind sauce is equally tasty. There are also a couple of bars, and bands playing Latin music set the scene on weekend nights. The staff can get overwhelmed when there's a crowd. AE, MC, V.

Talk about truth in packaging -- the Crazy Octopus has its palm-shaded tables planted firmly in the sand just a few yards from the ocean. As you might guess, octopus, oysters, mussels, and crab lead the lineup at this colorful seafood shack, though you can always munch on local favorites like fried codfish fritters. If your thirst is greater than your hunger, you can opt for a beer served in a plastic cup. The staff is friendly, and seems to know all the customers on a first-name basis. AE, MC, V.

Like its namesake, the painter Joan Miró, this small restaurant draws its inspiration from the Catalan region of Spain, where the cuisine is heavy on seafood and hearty tapas. Prints by the artist hang on the walls, lending the dining room a colorful feel. Start off with braised chorizo and peppers, or steamed clams with garlic. Main courses include delicious lamb chops, as well as grilled tuna with anchovy and caper butter or codfish in a red-pepper and eggplant sauce. AE, MC, V.

If you're in the mood for a hamburger or club sandwich, this laid-back restaurant is a good choice. The seating is comfortable wooden booths that overlook Playa Jobos -- the wind that whips up the waves may also blow away your napkin. In the evening the menu changes to more substantial fare, everything from shrimp scampi to baby back ribs. But many people just come for the socializing and the sunsets. AE, MC, V.

The specialty at this old-fashioned eatery is the mallorca, a sweet pastry that's buttered, grilled, and then sprinkled with powdered sugar. Wash one down with a terrific cup of café con leche. For something more substantial, try the breakfast mallorca, which has ham and cheese. The waitstaff -- all dressed in crisp green uniforms and caps -- are friendly and efficient. MC, V. Closed Sun.

Set in a plantation-style house, this elegant dining room sits on the edge of Condado Bay. Traditional Puerto Rican food is prepared with a flourish. Sample the fried cheese and bolitas de yautia y queso (cheese and yam dumplings), then move on to the gallinita rellena (stuffed cornish game hen). The plantain-crusted shrimp in a white-wine herb sauce is delicious, as is the paella overflowing with shrimp, octopus, mussels, chicken, and spicy sausage. Prices, however, are pretty high despite the quality. AE, DC, MC, V. 

The name means "jellyfish," which explains why this ultracool, ultramodern place has lighting fixtures shaped like that sea creature. Elegantly groomed oysters and clams float on cracked ice along the raw bar. The extensive menu is alive with inventive ceviches, some with tomato or roasted red peppers and olives, and fresh takes on classics like paella. For something more filling, try dorado served with a shrimp salsa, or tuna accompanied by seafood enchiladas. You could also empty out your wallet for one of the torres del mar, or towers of the sea. This gravity-defying dish has comes hot or cold and includes oysters, mussels, shrimp -- you name it. Oh, and don't pass up the lobster mashed potatoes. Those alone are worth the trip -- and the wait. Reservations not accepted. AE, D, MC, V.

As at the other food kiosks along Playa Húcares, you order at the counter and then grab a seat at one of the plastic tables that line the sidewalk. It's right on the ocean, so you are almost guaranteed that the fish will be fresh. Paper plates and plastic cutlery accompany the down-home seafood. MC, V.

From a covered deck overlooking Bahía Boquerón, catch the sunset while enjoying seafood -- caught fresh from local waters, of course. There's a lively happy hour and occasional live music. This place is along the main drag, but is set back from the street so you don't have to be a part of the passing parade. AE, MC, V. Closed Mon.-Wed. 

Right on the main square in Isabel Segunda, this family-run restaurant may not look much like Spain, but it certainly tastes like it. The menu is heavy on the seafood, including a respectable paella. There are plenty of other dishes as well, including grilled shrimp and octopus simmered in garlic sauce. You won't see many tourists here, but it's packed with locals on the weekend. AE, MC, V.

At this longtime favorite huge platters of delicious comida criolla are constantly streaming out of the kitchen. The friendly service and low prices are why the place is always packed. The menu includes everything from grilled flank steak to seafood-stuffed mofongo to barbecued ribs. The selection of good local desserts includes flan and dense, moist tres leches cake. Breakfast is also popular. AE, MC, V.

Dining in Old San Juan doesn't have to mean fighting for a table. This Mexican restaurant is the best of the string of laid-back eateries along Calle Recinto Sur. Plates of steaming hot tacos, burritos, and other reasonably authentic fare arrive at your table within minutes of placing your order. And if you want to watch the big game -- whatever that might happen to be -- it will doubtless be playing in the television over the bar. AE, MC, V.

Seafood is the specialty at this restaurant perched high on a bluff overlooking the ocean. This is a great place to sample specialties such as chillo entero (fried whole red snapper). The convenient location, down the road from El Conquistador Resort, lures travelers who have had enough hotel food. Reservations not accepted. AE, MC, V. Closed Tues.

Watch seagulls dive for their dinner while you dine on a covered deck extending out into the bay. The long list of seafood is prepared in a variety of ways: shrimp comes breaded, stewed, or skewered; conch is served as a salad or cooked in a butter and garlic sauce. And the lobster can be prepared in just about any way you can imagine. AE, DC, MC, V.

Business executives come here for power lunches, but La Casona is also a nice spot for a romantic dinner. The restored Spanish colonial residence has well-appointed rooms and blooming gardens. The menu is based solidly in Spain, but has many creative flourishes -- start with the duck pâté or smoked salmon and move on to the duck breast in a raspberry sauce or the rack of lamb, which is first baked and then sautéed with brandy and fruit. It's in Santurce, just south of Condado. AE, D, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun.

This little place is Rincón's answer to Ben & Jerry's. (It even borrowed the trademark cow spots for its facade.) The 16 flavors, especially the creamy butter pecan, are a blast from the past. After taking on the town's legendary waves, you can sit down to a juicy hamburger or hot dog while surfing though cyberspace at one of the lightning-fast terminals or thumbing through a tome from the lending library. AE, MC, V. 

Looking for something to pop in your picnic basket? This deli on the edge of town makes scrumptious salads and sandwiches that are big enough for two. There's also the island's best selection of wine and beer. To get here, cross the bridge on Calle Escudero, then take a quick right and a quick left. MC, V.

On the eastern edge of Ocean Beach, this Argentine-style steak house is worth the trip. Haven't tried churrasco, the marinated skirt steak that locals love? This is the place to do it. Other specialties of the kitchen include grilled sweetbreads. The hamburgers are huge, and the french fries are fresh. The wine list, which tends toward Chilean and Argentine vintages, is also a winner. It's in Ocean Park, just before you get to Isla Verde. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

The designers of this Asian-style eatery certainly had their tongues in their cheeks. Keeping the place cool are Japanese-style fans that wave at you from the ceiling. The sushi bar is a big draw, as are the Chinese and Thai entrées on the cross-cultural menu. Start with the duck spring rolls, then move on to the lobster with a sweet-and-spicy sauce. Reservations essential. AE, D, DC, MC, V. No lunch. 

The name is an inside joke -- it's pronounced like coup d'etat, the French term for "revolution." A bit of an exaggeration, perhaps, but the kitchen has scored more than a few victories with dishes that blend Caribbean main dishes with Asian cooking methods. That's why the steak is covered with a wasabi demiglace and the oysters are submerged is tasty green curry. The minimalist dining room is also a triumph, especially the sage-colored banquettes covered with aubergine-and-gold pillows. The black-clad staff couldn't be friendlier, and they are happy to help you negotiate the menu. AE, MC, V.

This tiny café near the beach is known for its gourmet wraps and sandwiches, as well as its freshly squeezed juices and fruity frappés. The pink sub is a blend of turkey, salami, and mozzarella, topped with black olives, chopped tomatoes, and basil. The surfer wrap is a mix of grilled turkey and mozzarella topped with pesto mayonnaise. Don't see what you want? You are free to make up your own. Seating is limited, but takeout is available. Or place your order from the beach, where speedy delivery people tend to your hunger pangs. MC, V. Closed Mon. No dinner.

Everything -- from the pastries to the pastas -- is delicious at this café on a quiet block in Condado. For breakfast there are wonderful omelets stuffed with fresh vegetables and imported cheeses. For lunch there are sandwiches -- from pastrami to king crab -- served on croissants, baguettes, or any other type of bread. For dinner try the grilled salmon or the chicken in white wine. AE, MC, V. 

This bright luncheonette off bustling Loíza Street has great vegetarian fare, baked goods, and fruit frappés. There are tasty garden burgers, and eggplant, hummus, and tofu sandwiches and platters. The Saturday special, vegetarian sancocho is a hearty blend of tubers and vegetables, slow-cooked in a sweet-herb sofrito. The natural carrot muffins, pistachio coffee cake, and Arabian desserts will have you carrying paper bags out of the place. It's open only until 6 PM. No credit cards. Closed Sun. No dinner.

Don't be scared off by the cheap plastic tables and chairs. What you should notice is that they are almost always full of locals enjoying the area's freshest seafood. The kitchen keeps it simple, preparing dishes with the lightest touch. Highlights include the mahimahi with onions and peppers, or fried red snapper with beans and rice. Fried plantains make a nice accompaniment to almost anything. AE, MC, V.

Popular with day-trippers to Gilligan's Island, this modest restaurant sits right at the ferry terminal. This doesn't mean, however, that the dining room has views of the Caribbean. For those, grab one of the concrete picnic tables outside. The menu is almost entirely seafood, running the gamut from fried snapper to broiled lobster. When it's not high season the menu can be limited to two or three items. MC, V. 

There are more than 50 kioskos, or food stands, along the highway on the way to Luquillo Beach. They all serve basically the same thing -- fried seafood. This place, true to its name, also has a grill, so there are burgers and other meat dishes in addition to the fish. There's even a comfortable patio in the rear that let's you escape the traffic noise. No credit cards.

She's been in the kitchen for more than 25 years, which explains why Margarita Suárez never gets flustered, no matter how many people pack into her little restaurant. Her specialty is seafood, and dishes like conch simmered with onions and garlic are simple and satisfying. Don't be surprised if she offers you a taste of whatever else she's cooking. Make sure to try her mofongo -- it's not available anywhere else on the island. The restaurant is a little hard to find; from Calle de Escudero, turn onto the road that runs past the new school. Take the first left and continue uphill until you see the restaurant on your left. MC, V. Closed Mon.-Wed.

If you're curious about mofongo -- sweet plantains mashed into a paste and filled with just about anything imaginable -- this is where locals will send you. This self-proclaimed "casa del mofongo" adds chicken or any combination of seafood to an excellent version. You can even order it as a side alongside grilled churrasco or sautéed red snapper. The restaurant sits in Ocean Park, on the border of Isla Verde, and does delivery as well. MC, V. Closed Mon. 

Trees overflowing with bananas, papayas, and passion fruit line the walkway that leads to one of Culebra's best eateries. Chef Jennifer Daubon, whose parents also ran a restaurant on the island, focuses on the freshest local produce, which is why about an acre of land on the surrounding hillside is used for growing vegetables and herbs. The menu changes with the seasons, but look for dishes like lobster limonjili, which is medallions of lobster in a fresh lime and garlic sauce. The dining room, with its low lights and soft music, is the most romantic in Culebra. Reservations essential. MC, V.

Seafood is the specialty of this restaurant, one of the most popular in the Ritz-Carlton. Fresh fruit makes an appearance in many dishes, adding a distinct flavor. Start off with shrimp ceviche with a tangerine-cilantro sauce, then move on to the jerk spiced tuna steak or the red snapper baked in a banana leaf. Don't expect stuffed parrots and other paraphernalia; The elegant dining room is reminiscent of a plantation house. You can also dine outdoors on the terrace. AE, D, DC, MC, V. No dinner Sun.

The prices are right at this no-frills cafeteria, which draws a lot of locals for lunch. You can sample such down-home Puerto Rican cuisine as roasted chicken marinated with local spices or slices of roast pork in a honey-sweet glaze. You can pile on the side dishes, which include toasted plantains and creamy potato salad. There's also a selection of sandwiches piled high with meats and cheeses. It's open daily for lunch and dinner, and for breakfast every day except Sunday. MC, V.

Tucked into a beautifully restored building in Isabel Segunda, this eatery has been a favorite for many years. Its popularity might be due to the convenient downtown location, or the intimate tables on the balconies that surround the second-floor dining room. More likely, however, it's the creativity of the cooks. (You can watch all the action, as the kitchen is in full view.) Try the cornish hen in a sweet-spicy coconut sauce or the seared yellowfin tuna served with vegetable tempura. Not so hungry? Then share one of the tasty pizzas. Half a dozen are on offer at any given time. Reservations essential. AE, MC, V. Closed Mon. and Tues. No lunch.

The rangers at El Yunque swear by this place, a cement-block building just past Cascada La Cola. You won't find a cheaper meal anywhere in Puerto Rico, that's for sure. The arroz habicuela con pollo (fried chicken with rice and beans) is a steal at less than $5. The barking dog on the roof and the unusual artwork in the open-air dining room -- a huge blob of papier mâché that may or may not be a boulder -- add to the atmosphere. Get here early, as the place closes at 5 PM. No credit cards. Closed Thurs. No dinner.

Locals come to this restaurant for a quick fix of traditional slow-roasted chicken with all the trimmings -- rice and beans, tostones, and yucca. You order your food at the counter, choosing precisely how much chicken and which side dishes you want. There are picnic tables outside, tables inside, and take-out service. MC, V. 

Next door to Bananas, this place deserves more than the overflow from its more established neighbor. It has the same view, a fresher decor, and more authentic food. For lunch, order a tasty sandwich such as skirt steak with mango, peppers, blue cheese, and caramelized onions that is accompanied by cassava fries. For more substantial fare, there's fried chicken with a guava glaze or angel-hair pasta with crab meat stewed in coconut milk and tomatoes. In the evening you can stop by for a beer and not have to shout to be heard. AE, MC, V.

People come from all over the island for a meal at the Horned Dorset Primavera, and it's easy to see why. A pair of stone stairways sweep you up to the elegant dining room, with black-and-white marble floors and chandeliers with ruby-red shades. From the terrace you'll hear the constant crash of the waves. Chef Aaron Wratten has been doing double duty since he bought the restaurant in 2005, but you can't tell from the delights that stream out of the kitchen. The five-course daily menu and the nine-course tasting menu change daily, but might include pan-seared scallops with asparagus risotto or roasted grouper with pumpkin purée. Dress is formal by island standards, meaning that no shorts are allowed. One disappointment: the wine list is well-traveled, but not to budget destinations. Reservations essential. AE, MC, V.

Her husband is on hand to chat with the customers, but Barbara Petersen does everything else: takes your order, cooks it up, and serves it with a flourish. You won't find better food anywhere on the island, and that includes the places that charge twice as much. Locals swear by her tender, flaky fish and chips. (The secret, Barbara's husband happily points out, is using red snapper.) Finish with key lime pie or peach and pineapple cobbler. MC, V. Closed Sun. and Mon.

If you're looking for authentic island cuisine, this ain't it. This longtime favorite, across from the waterfront in Esperanza, is geared almost entirely to gringos. That doesn't mean the grub isn't good, though. Find a spot at one of the curvy concrete tables and order the red-snapper sandwich (popular at lunchtime), or go all out for babyback ribs or jerk chicken. The salads are excellent, including the caribeño (fresh greens with curried chicken) and the festival (greens with grilled chicken, blue cheese, and cranberries). At night Bananas is the hot spot on this side of the island. AE, MC, V.

The menu here couldn't be simpler -- dishes like fried pork with plantains or stewed crab with beans and rice are your best options. The premises are just as straightforward, just a covered patio with plastic tables and chairs. But at these prices, who can complain? No credit cards.

You're surrounded by history at this restaurant in a building that dates from 1862. The site has seen life as a repair shop for horse-drawn buggies, a gas station, and -- since the mid-1950s -- a restaurant. The place is always hopping with townspeople who stop by at all hours for a meal or a drink. You can get eggs and toast for breakfast, sandwiches throughout the day, and roasted chicken or liver and onions for dinner. MC, V. Closed Sun.

Get a table on the terrace at the edge of the Caribbean. You'll find good Puerto Rican cuisine and lots of seafood, including lobster, red snapper, and mofongo (mashed plantains with seafood). Be sure to sample one of the restaurant's daiquiris -- there's a huge list from which to choose. AE, MC, V. No dinner Mon.-Wed.

This rustic restaurant on the edge of Dos Bocas Lake would make any Puerto Rican grandmother envious. The menu features stews, red snapper (whole or filleted), and fricassees, including pork chop, goat, and rabbit. You arrive either by taking the public boat from El Embarcadero on Route 612, by calling the restaurant from the dock and requesting a boat be sent to pick you up (free of charge), or by driving to the south side of the lake. From Utuado, take Route 111 to Route 140 to Route 612 and follow that to its end. The restaurant is open weekends only. MC, V. Closed Mon.-Thurs.

Many restaurants in La Paraguera sit beside the bay, but very few have an actual view. This elegant, second-floor dining room at the rear of Posada Porlamar overlooks a lovely stretch of coastline ringed by mangrove trees. The menu is the best in town, going well beyond the standard surf-and-turf offerings. There's rack of lamb, for example, but here you'll find it topped with goat cheese. The lobster tail is as fresh as anywhere else on the strip, but is topped with a tasty guanabana sauce. MC, V.

In an old-fashioned country-style house, this extremely popular restaurant serves some of the best chuletas can-can that you'll find anywhere. Other traditional dishes include stewed rice and pork, steak with onions, and fried chicken. Save room for the vanilla flan, which is the specialty of the house. This is a good place to stop for lunch or dinner when you're traveling along the southern coast on Route 2. AE, MC, V. Closed Mon. 

Culebra's version of heavy traffic -- the arrival and departure of the water taxi -- takes place around the dock that gives this restaurant its name. The menu leans toward grilled meats, from pork chops to sirloin steaks. Daily specials often concentrate on the restaurant's forte: creole-style seafood, including swordfish and yellowtail. The adjacent bar is usually packed with expats. It can get noisy, so don't expect a quiet dinner for two. MC, V.

At Puerto del Rey Marina, this waterfront eatery has tables in a dining room with nautical details or on a terrace overlooking the boats bobbing on the waves. Steaks and poultry figure on the menu, but the kitchen truly excels at seafood dishes, including fresh lobster. MC, V.

In a small blue building on the main plaza, this local institution has been serving up Puerto Rican specialties since 1936. Traditionally prepared seafood dishes like the asopao (a thick soup flavored with conch, octopus, or lobster) come with large servings of beans, rice, and fried plantains. If you want something fancier, there's lobster tail rolled in bacon or Conch in a spicy sauce. The decor is nautical, with fishing nets hanging from the ceiling. MC, V. Closed Mon. 

This rustic seaside shack -- painted, like Annie's, a vivid shade of orange -- sells a variety of fish and chicken dishes. Be sure to try one of the specialty sandwiches, which are made with deep-fried plantains instead of bread. The deck in back is a perfect place to catch the breeze. MC, V.

The atmosphere here is casual, thanks to the many hikers that drop in on their way to or from El Yunque. But the food is a cut above what you'd expect to find in such an out-of-the-way place. Look for tartare of red snapper served with fried plantains or crab turnovers with melon chutney. The roasted lamb in a wine and herb sauce makes a hearty dinner. AE, MC, V. Closed Mon.-Wed.

Near the Mirador Piedra Degetau, this hilltop restaurant has a panoramic view of Aibonito. You can see the lights of the city through the floor-to-ceiling windows. The food is abundant, from the chicken with tamarind sauce to the pork loin in an orange glaze. Even the side dishes, including the fried plantains, are memorable. If you're in the area on Sunday, drop by for the excellent buffet. D, MC, V. Closed Mon. and Tues. No dinner Wed. and Thurs. 

In a restored plantation house surrounded by a quiet garden, this inventive restaurant seems as if it's out on the island somewhere rather than just off bustling Avenida Ashford. Make sure to order several of the tasty appetizers -- such as breaded calamari in a tomato-basil sauce -- so you can share them your dinner companions. Of the notable main courses, try the veal chops stuffed with provolone and pancetta, or the miso-marinated salmon served over lemony basmati rice. AE, D, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. and Mon. No lunch Tues.-Thurs. or Sat.

Facing Plaza San José, this bright and airy restaurant often throws open the doors and lets its tables spill into the square. If you want a little more privacy, there's also an interior courtyard and an intimate dining room with whitewashed walls, linen tablecloths, and lazily turning ceiling fans. Expect nouvelle Caribbean appetizers such as dumplings with guava-rum sauce or plantain mousse with shrimp, and entrées such as ravioli with a goat-cheese and pork with mango and sugarcane. AE, MC, V. Closed Sun. No lunch Mon.

Slightly off the beaten path, this chic eatery is definitely an "in" spot. The chef gives haute international dishes tropical panache. Starters include chayote stuffed with prosciutto and corn tamales with shrimp in a coconut sauce. Half the entrées are seafood dishes, including pan-seared tuna with a ginger sauce and red snapper served over spinach. The ginger flan is a must for dessert. The sophisticated dining room is hung with works by local artists. It's in Miramar, just a few blocks from Condado. AE, MC, V. Closed Sun. and Mon. No lunch Sat.

As you might guess from the name, the music is as much of a draw of the food at Carli Café Concierto. The genial owner and host, Carli Muñoz, once toured with the Beach Boys (note the gold album on the wall). Many evenings he plays the gorgeous grand piano, often accompanied by singers and musicians who happen to drop in. In the Banco Popular building that dominates the skyline, this intimate bistro has black-marble tables scattered around the room. Have a seat indoors or on the outdoor patio, and dine on such Mediterranean-Caribbean specialties as seared loin of lamb or ravioli in a light pesto sauce. AE, MC, V. Closed Sun.

Hidden behind an etched-glass door, this discreet restaurant is one of the best on the island. Chef Mark French has won praise for his creative blend of European cooking techniques and local ingredients. That skill results in appetizers like terrine of foie gras with dried cherry compote and smoked salmon topped with caramelized mango. The menu changes often, but you're likely to see such entrées as plantain-crusted dorado and rack of lamb with a goat cheese crust. The chocolate truffle cake draws fans from as far away as San Juan. This is a family-run business, so Mark's wife, Melody, is likely to greet you at the door. Reservations essential. AE, MC, V. Closed Mon.

The same great steaks and seafood are served here as at this popular chain's other locations, including the original in New York City. When you leave, you half expect to look up at the Brooklyn Bridge. Caricatures of local and international celebrities stare down at you from the walls. The dark wood of the bar and the other furnishings let you know that you're in for some serious dining. The 10-ounce filet mignon is relatively petite, at least when compared to the rib eye that weights in at 24 ounces. Then there's the lobster, which starts at 3 pounds and goes higher. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

Austrian-born chef Augusto Schreiner, a graduate of the Salzburg Culinary School, regularly wins awards for his classic European cuisine. The menu changes seasonally; some of the dishes commonly served are veal chops with roasted root vegetables and duck breast with bok choy. The angular lines of the dining room are softened by large bouquets of flowers. AE, MC, V. Closed Sun. and Mon. No lunch Sat.

In the open-air dining room, the south-coast views are breathtaking, and the evening breezes are cool enough that you might find the fireplace ablaze. Nightly piano performances of show tunes and Puerto Rican ballads take away any remaining chill, especially when they become sing-alongs. Grilled churrasco and seafood dominate the menu, which changes so often that it's posted on a blackboard. Try the "Russian" tostones (fried green plantains with sour cream and caviar). The place is open only on weekends. AE, D, MC, V. Closed Mon.-Thurs.

On Vieques, Carlos Alzogaray has single-handedly changed how people approach seafood. The chef at this "Caribbean-fusion" eatery serves mahimahi, as does everyone else, but he turns it into ceviche with a lemon-passionfruit sauce. His tuna steak is marinated in a soy-ginger sauce and served over soba noodles. Even his lobster is completely rethought, appearing as a carpaccio with avocado ragout. Meat dishes include a huge rib-eye with lobster mashed potatoes. And there's a great wine list, as you might guess from the pillars covered with thousands of corks. For lunch, you can pick up wraps and other items at the less expensive Uva Next Door. Reservations essential. AE, MC, V. Closed Tues. 

This restaurant's succulent prawns, grilled and served with garlic butter, are supposed to be aphrodisiacs. Well, everything on the menu is rated for its love-inducing qualities. (Look out for those labeled "Ay, ay, ay!") There are some seats indoors, but opt for a seat in the walled courtyard. With brilliant purple bougainvillea tumbling down and moonlight streaming through the trees, it's one of the city's prettiest alfresco dining spots. The gregarious owner, Alberto Nazario, brother of pop star Ednita Nazario, genuinely enjoys seeing his guests satisfied. He'll sometimes take out a guitar and sing old folk songs. Don't be surprised if the locals sing along. AE, MC, V.

Enjoy a bit of Germany at this out-of-the-way eatery outside the town of Orocovis, about 16 km (10 mi) northwest of Barranquitas. Casa Bavaria is a kitschy blend of biergarten and casual country restaurant. Choose bratwurst and sauerkraut or chicken with rice and beans. On weekends, patrons spend a good part of the day enjoying the view from the terrace, singing along with the jukebox, and joking with the waiters, some of whom speak German as well as English and Spanish. AE, MC, V. Closed Mon.-Wed.

This colonial-era house has been transformed into something out of ancient Rome. But did those Romans ever feast on appetizers like foie gras on a bed of white onions or marinated salmon with chives? As good as these are, the main courses are even better. The ravioli stuffed with chicken liver, spinach, and black truffles are a wonder, as is the pork filet with thyme and blueberries. The extensive wine cellar, housed in the former cistern, is sure to contain the perfect complement to your meal. Everything here is discreet, from the entrance (just an awning over a doorway) to the service. MC, V. 

If you thought carpaccio was only made with beef, then you're in for a wonderful surprise. At Crú, one of San Juan's best new restaurants, a special carpaccio menu includes old standards like beef with truffle oil and Parmesan cheese, as well as new concoctions like halibut with fresh mango and cuttlefish with caramelized onions. It's all laid out for you on a bed of ice so you can choose whatever strikes your fancy. Main dishes include penne with porcini mushrooms and filet of lamb with eggplant. The dining room, like the rest of the Normandie Hotel, has some wonderful art-deco flourishes. AE, MC, V.

Don't let the elegance fool you. The prices are truly reasonable at this restaurant far from the well-trodden areas and in a restored art-deco structure with tile floors, large picture windows, and pastel walls. The menu includes about 30 pasta dishes, all freshly made with top-quality ingredients. The basic meat lasagne is just as good as the more elaborate penne with smoked salmon and a cream sauce. AE, MC, V. Closed Sun. No dinner Mon.-Wed.

The food at this no-frills café is just as authentic and as tasty -- from the pizza to the veal and peppers to house red wine -- as its higher-priced paisanos. The outdoor-seating area looks out on Condado's busy Ashford Avenue, which is usually filled with people coming from and going to the beach. The wine bar next door has a bit more ambience. AE, MC, V.

Any night of the week you're likely to find this place packed with locals, who come for the convivial atmosphere as much as the delicious Italian fare. The glassed-in dining room gets noisy, so you may have to shout when you order the veal medallions with portobello and porcini mushrooms or the salmon with capers. Unusual for these parts, there's even a good selection of vegetarian options, including a hearty broccoli alfredo. The wine list, which naturally focuses on Italian vintages, is impressive. AE, D, MC, V.

Ignore the tongue-in-cheek recordings of "That's Amore." Everything else in this red-walled trattoria is the real deal, from the gleaming vegetables on the antipasto table to the interesting vintages on the small but well-chosen wine list. Start with the squid stuffed with sweet sausage, then move onto the linguine with clams and pancetta or the cannelloni filled with roasted duck and topped with marscapone cheese. The plates of pasta are huge, so you might want to consider a half-order (which is more the size of a three-quarter order). Save room for -- what else? -- a tasty tiramisu. AE, MC, V.

Northern Italian dishes such as rack of lamb with olive tapenade and poached salmon with spinach are the star attractions at this award-winning restaurant. The friendly staff serves everything with a flourish, whipping up the salads and other dishes beside your table. The arrival of the specialty coffees, served in mugs engulfed in blue flames, is such an showstopper that people at neighboring tables applaud. The dining room, with its black-and-white checkerboard floor and its dark-wood paneling, is gently curved, so it never feels cramped. Reservations essential. AE, D, DC, MC, V. No lunch. 

On a quiet side street, this café has a laid-back vibe that has people coming back again and again. The food, from old family recipes, includes Puerto Rican favorites like garbanzo-bean stew flavored with ham and sausage and veal tips simmered in wine. The creamy flan has also developed quite a following. There's a small bar in back where you can sample the trademark drink, a fruity rum punch. MC, V.

You might feel you're in the South Pacific or Bali when you take a seat at one of the bamboo tables at this romantic restaurant, especially when you see the oiled teak beams across the ceiling and the shutters that swing up to catch the breeze. The menu has a bit of a split personality -- the appetizers lean toward Caribbean favorites, whereas the entrées are mostly Mediterranean staples. It all comes together with such dishes as seared tuna with a ginger and cilantro vinaigrette or sesame-crusted salmon served on a bed of Asian vegetables. There are always several vegetarian options on the menu. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

You know the moment you walk in the door that this is the real deal. The first clue is the smell of grilled meat coming from the kitchen. The juicy flank steaks are indeed standouts, but so are the burritos and enchiladas. There's also a wide selection of margaritas, each one iced to perfection and served with a lime wedge. The decor -- paper streamers hanging from the ceiling -- will remind you of eateries in small towns all over Mexico. AE, MC, V. 

The highway leading to Coama is lined by dozens of fast-food restaurants. Luckily, there are a few family-owned eateries worth stopping for, one of the best of which is this open-air cantina. You'll find the usual tacos, burritos, quesadillas, and fajitas, as well as some interesting Puerto Rican dishes like chicken breast stuffed with shrimp. World-class margaritas are served at the bar. MC, V.

On San Germán's main drag, this place certainly feels like a traditional cantina. The Mexican food here is the real deal. Although you'll find some dishes that are more Tex than Mex, such as the cheesy nachos, the kitchen does best with more authentic tacos, burritos, and enchiladas. For something a bit more off the wall, try the shrimp fried in tequila. Closed Sun.-Wed.

This place has one of the most dazzling views of San Juan, especially in the evening when the city lights are twinkling. Perched atop a coastal bluff, it's at the first left once you cross the bridge into Piñones. Grab one of the tables on the deck and order some of the simple seafood dishes like octopus or king-crab salads, served in vasos or platos (glasses or plates). MC, V.

This casual restaurant sits across from the Arroyo's waterfront walk. In the evening, tables spill out onto a tiled terrace. Popular with locals, it serves seafood dishes like broiled red snapper as well as grilled steaks. AE, MC, V. Closed Mon. and Tues. 

Families favor this laid-back restaurant, whose dining room sits at the edge of the sea. The kitchen serves generous and affordable plates of fish, crab, and other fresh seafood with tostones, french fries, and garlic bread. Try the shrimp in garlic sauce, salmon filet with capers, or the delectable mofongo. Finish your meal with one of the fantastic flans. The piña coladas -- with or without rum -- are exceptional. AE, MC, V.

This family favorite specializes in all types of seafood. Mofongo leaves the kitchen overflowing with shrimp, lobster, or conch. The hearty asopao (a thick soup) is made with shrimp or chicken. There's also fried chicken with rice and beans and skirt steak covered with mushrooms. The restaurant is west of Guánica, past the western section of the Bosque Estatal de Guánica. From Route 116, take Route 325 to the end. AE, MC, V.

At the Marina de Salinas, this seafood restaurant has porthole windows that look out onto the dozens of sailboats anchored nearby. From the steeply sloped ceiling hang strings of semaphore flags and huge model ships. Some of the specialties include ensalada de carrucho (conch salad) and arroz mamposteao de jueyes (rice with crab). Make sure to try fish with the local mojo isleño. AE, MC, V. 

The so-called "Little House" isn't little at all -- it's a sizeable establishment that sits smack in the middle of the town's main road. Generous portions make this family-run restaurant one of the town's favorites. Try the asopao, which is made with shrimp, lobster, or other types of seafood. You can take a table in the rather bland ground-floor dining room or on the second-floor terrace, which has a view of the water. MC, V. Closed Mon.

You can't miss this funky hangout because of its eye-catching color scheme. But behind the brilliant blue building is a great deck that looks across a bike path to the beach. There's always live music on weekends -- jazz on Saturday, something else on Friday. Other times you can just enjoy the rhythms floating out from the speakers. The menu is pretty much what you'd expect -- heavy on the seafood -- but it jazzes things up with lots of coconut and tropical fruit. MC, V.

A dining room with windows facing the ocean is a fitting place to try some of the southwest coast's best seafood. You can snack on empanadillas (deep-fried fritters), then move on to red snapper with rice and beans or plantains stuffed with seafood. This place, in an unmistakable orange building on the main drag, is casual and friendly. AE, MC, V. Closed Mon.-Wed. 

You can see two of the forts of Old San Juan -- Fuerte San Filipe del Morro and Fuerte San Cristóbal -- from the covered terrace of this seafood restaurant. The beach itself is only a few feet away. The food here is more creative than you'd expect, with dishes ranging from shrimp with cilantro and roasted garlic butter to lobster grilled with a rum and butter sauce. Not in the mood for seafood? There are plenty of meat dishes, including skirt steak and pork chops. The restaurant is walking distance from the Caribe Hilton and the Normandie. AE, MC, V.

A bit farther down the beach than its rowdier rivals, this restaurant attracts a slightly older crowd of sanjuaneros whose primary objective is eating rather than drinking. The menu is also more mature, offering such entrées as red snapper in a garlic sauce or lobster tails in lemon butter. If you can't decide, the sampler platter has everything from fried fritters to fresh oysters. You can choose a table in the dimly lighted dining room or outside on the covered patio. AE, MC, V.

The view of the Río Espíritu may initially draw you into this restaurant, but it's the savory seafood that will keep you coming back. Try the catch of the day -- whatever it is, it's always a winner. This is also a sweet spot for a sunset cocktail. MC, V.

If you're looking for a break from all that seafood, try this brightly painted café facing the main drag, which serves some of the town's best comida criolla. The unusual name refers to the fresh-fruit smoothies that are constantly being whipped up in the blender. If you can't decide on a flavor, take a cue from the scowling pineapple positioned over the front door. The café is open late on weekends. No credit cards.

The colorful neon sign outside this restaurant touts its signature dish: an earthenware goblet overflowing with mashed plantains and seafood. It comes in two sizes, but the smaller one is usually enough to satisfy all but the biggest appetites. There are plenty of other dishes on the menu, from red snapper in a spicy sauce to lobster with butter. There's no ocean view, but the elegant dining makes up for it. AE, DC, MC, V.

Perched on a mountaintop, this restaurant -- a well-located option for Westin Río Mar guests who don't want to dine on-property -- has an pair of open-air dining rooms that overlook the coastline. It's no surprise that seafood is the specialty here -- try the fried plantains filled with shrimp, conch, octopus, or lobster for an appetizer, then move on to grouper stuffed with crab and served in a spicy sauce. The staff is young and eager to please. AE, MC, V.

"Gringoland" is how one local described this Tex-Mex eatery. There are so many English-speaking tourists that management doesn't even bother to print the menu in Spanish. But the ribs and burgers melt in your mouth, and the helpings of crispy fries are generous. Nearly every dish -- Southwestern or otherwise -- is washed down with beer. Televisions broadcast the latest sporting events, and on the weekend bands often replace the jukebox. AE, MC, V. 

In this stylish dining room there's not a bad seat in the house. Choose one of the comfortable couches near the door, a stool at the bar, or a banquette overlooking the swimming pool. A few choice tables are outside on the covered terrace. Just as good is the wide array of small dishes created by chef Christopher Ellis. Not content to stay in Spain, his tapas travel the globe. Some, like the chipolte barbecued pork, are clearly from Mexico. The mussels, in red coconut-curry broth, have an Asian flair. If there is a wait for a table, your server will suggest you enjoy a cocktail at the Palms, which is just around the corner. Reservations essential. AE, D, MC, V.

This cozy spot covers its brick walls (ladrillo means "brick") from floor to ceiling with original paintings. Many of the dishes on the menu are Spanish, which might account for the many portraits of Don Quixote. There's a wide selection of seafood -- try the zarzuela, a combination of lobster, squid, octopus, and clams. Lobster is a specialty, and you can order it a la criolla (in a spicy stew), a la parrilla (from the grill), or ajillo (with a garlic sauce). The steaks are also good, especially the filet mignon. The red-jacketed waiters really know their stuff. AE, MC, V.

The elegant tiled dining room calls to mind the old world, while the friendly, relaxed service is all about the new one. Seafood is the specialty: order a traditional paella or the unusual lobster wrapped in mozzarella and bacon and flambéed. If you're in the mood for something lighter, you can order tapas in the wood-and-brick bar. Call ahead, as private parties sometimes close the place to visitors. AE, MC, V. Closed Sun. 

A 10,000-bottle wine cellar is just one of the draws of this Spanish restaurant. The chef is often honored in local competitions for specialties such as lobster with basil butter, medallions of lamb with raspberries, and duck with orange and ginger sauce. The paella is the best in town. The dining room is elegant, with crisp linens and gleaming silverware. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. No lunch Sat.

One of the biggest surprises in San Germán is this wonderful little restaurant facing Plaza Santo Domingo. The dining room looks like a Spanish courtyard, complete with blue stars swirling around the ceiling. Don't expect tiny portions just because it serves tapas -- several of the dishes, including the medallions of beef topped with a dab of blue cheese, could pass as full entrées anywhere. You'll find old favorites on the menu, including spicy sausage in red wine, but some new creations as well, such as the yam and codfish fritters. MC, V. Closed Mon. and Tues. No lunch Wed. and Thurs.

The name of this restaurant comes from the Basque word for "blue," which also happens to be the dining room's dominant color. The menu here is mostly Spanish dishes, but Caribbean touches abound. The soup and seafood appetizers are particularly good, and a highly recommended entrée is chillo urdin de lujo (red snapper sautéed with clams, mussels, and shrimp in a tomato, herb, and wine sauce). AE, MC, V.

Housed in a beautifully restored criollo-style house, Rincón Argentina is one of the city's most popular restaurants. Completely unpretentious, this is the kind of steak house you find all over South America. The specialty of the house is parrilladas, meaning just about anything that comes off the grill. Don't pass up the skirt steak, served here with the best chimichurri you'll find anywhere. On cool evenings take a table on the terrace. Otherwise, wander through the maze of dining rooms until you find a table you like. Reservations essential. AE, MC, V.

When islanders go out to dinner, they often end up at this spot far away from the beach. But its location on a rather secluded hilltop doesn't mean fewer crowds. This is especially true each Friday, when the chef throws the regular menu out the window and cooks up "novo Latino" fare and it's hard to secure a table. On a normal night, get one of the sizzling steaks, which range in size from "petite" to "hearty." The rib-eye, one of the most popular items, weighs in at 20 ounces. There's also seafood, of course. The lobster basted with spiced rum is especially fine. The second-floor terrace might remind you of a tree house, as it looks directly into the branches. The restaurant is on Route 201, between Isabel Segunda and Esperanza. Reservations essential. AE, MC, V. Closed Mon.-Thurs. No lunch.

This dining room seems to be blushing -- the walls and the gauzy curtains are the same shade of crimson. It has nothing to be ashamed of, as it serves some delicious grilled meats. After you select an entrée -- say, skewered shrimp or double-cut veal chops -- you can cover it with toppings ranging from a rum-peppercorn glaze to spiced butter. If you can't decide, the mixed grill has a bit of everything. The view of the Bahía de San Juan usually includes an ocean liner or two. AE, MC, V.

Argentine-style steak houses have become quite popular, and this modest little place is no exception. You can watch as the cook tosses your meat on the grill, flipping it with a casual flair. The selections are many, from the 12-ounce flank steak to the 18 ounces of beef short ribs. A delicious dessert selection is the panqueque de dulce de leche, a caramel-filled crepe. AE, D, MC, V.

Bakeries
For the just-right bite before the beach, or after the walking tour or a party, visit one of the city’s traditional panaderías (bakeries). They sell pastries, sweets (great with espresso), sandwiches, and even wine. Try mallorca, a sweet bread covered with sugar, and quesito, a luscious cheese-filled pastry. Three of the best panaderias are España, in Isla Verde (the croquettes are excellent); La Bombonera, in Old San Juan (mallorcas supreme); and Kasalta, an Ocean Park spot known for its sandwiches. 

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