For the ultimate tropical dining experience, make a beeline here, the only city restaurant that offers outdoor seating on the sand, just steps away from the ocean, though it's also possible to dine indoors in air-conditioned comfort. The contemporary Caribbean menu is as memorable as the alfresco setting; daily specials might include blackened salmon glazed with a Mandarin honey sauce or Jamaican jerk shrimp and coconut corn arepas with guava coulis. AE, D, MC, V. 

In the heart of Isla Verde, this restaurant attracts a young, hip crowd. The menu is something old, something new. Puerto Rican favorites are jazzed up, so that the skirt steak is served with pumpkin risotto and the grilled pork is covered with a guava glaze. The bar is a great place for a beer in the afternoon or for cocktails before heading to the clubs. AE, MC, V.

The dining room spills onto a terrace fronting the ocean, whose the steady breezes are as much a part of the dreamy scene as the muted-orange lighting and cream walls. This place is all about sensual pleasures, so it's no surprise that the descriptions of many of the dishes sound a bit risqué. (A plate with three types of marinated fish is named, quite simply, "Threesome.") Appetizers such as roasted pumpkin soup with lemongrass foam and crispy wild mushroom dumplings are seductive but overpriced. Artful entrées include chicken breast stuffed with eggplant puree and a pan-seared sea bass with sea-urchin butter sauce. AE, MC, V.

Those who think coffee can never be too strong should make a beeline to Kasalta, which has an amazing inky black brew that will knock your socks off. Make your selection from the display cases full of luscious pastries and other tempting treats. Walk up to the counter and order a sandwich, such as the savory Cubano, or such items as the meltingly tender octopus salad. AE, MC, V.

This popular restaurant is across from its namesake, so it's no surprise that the seafood is the freshest around. Start with a plate of fried calamari, served lightly breaded and accompanied by a spicy sauce, then move on to the broiled lobster tail or grilled red snapper in a garlic sauce. Locals swear by the paella, which is loaded with scallops, clams, shrimp, and squid. The restaurant is just west of Playa Escambrón. AE, MC, V. Closed Mon. 

A bit more refined than some of its neighbors, this restaurant actually sits on a wooden platform positioned above the sand. Even nicer is the upstairs deck that lets you gaze at the ocean instead of the parking lot. The grilled steak served with chimichurri is as good as it gets, and juicy barbecued chicken with tamarind sauce is equally tasty. There are also a couple of bars, and bands playing Latin music set the scene on weekend nights. The staff can get overwhelmed when there's a crowd. AE, MC, V.

Talk about truth in packaging -- the Crazy Octopus has its palm-shaded tables planted firmly in the sand just a few yards from the ocean. As you might guess, octopus, oysters, mussels, and crab lead the lineup at this colorful seafood shack, though you can always munch on local favorites like fried codfish fritters. If your thirst is greater than your hunger, you can opt for a beer served in a plastic cup. The staff is friendly, and seems to know all the customers on a first-name basis. AE, MC, V.

From a covered deck overlooking Bahía Boquerón, catch the sunset while enjoying seafood -- caught fresh from local waters, of course. There's a lively happy hour and occasional live music. This place is along the main drag, but is set back from the street so you don't have to be a part of the passing parade. AE, MC, V. Closed Mon.-Wed. 

This Mexican restaurant is also a sports bar located next to ESJ Towers in Isla Verde. Plates of steaming hot tacos, burritos, and other reasonably authentic fare arrive at your table within minutes of placing your order. And if you want to watch the big game -- whatever that might happen to be -- it will doubtless be playing in the television over the bar. They also have bands almost every night of he week. AE, MC, V.

On the eastern edge of Ocean Beach, this Argentine-style steak house is worth the trip. Haven't tried churrasco, the marinated skirt steak that locals love? This is the place to do it. Other specialties of the kitchen include grilled sweetbreads. The hamburgers are huge, and the french fries are fresh. The wine list, which tends toward Chilean and Argentine vintages, is also a winner. It's in Ocean Park, just before you get to Isla Verde. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

This tiny café near the beach is known for its gourmet wraps and sandwiches, as well as its freshly squeezed juices and fruity frappés. The pink sub is a blend of turkey, salami, and mozzarella, topped with black olives, chopped tomatoes, and basil. The surfer wrap is a mix of grilled turkey and mozzarella topped with pesto mayonnaise. Don't see what you want? You are free to make up your own. Seating is limited, but takeout is available. Or place your order from the beach, where speedy delivery people tend to your hunger pangs. MC, V. Closed Mon. No dinner.

This bright luncheonette off bustling Loíza Street has great vegetarian fare, baked goods, and fruit frappés. There are tasty garden burgers, and eggplant, hummus, and tofu sandwiches and platters. The Saturday special, vegetarian sancocho is a hearty blend of tubers and vegetables, slow-cooked in a sweet-herb sofrito. The natural carrot muffins, pistachio coffee cake, and Arabian desserts will have you carrying paper bags out of the place. It's open only until 6 PM. No credit cards. Closed Sun. No dinner.

If you're curious about mofongo -- sweet plantains mashed into a paste and filled with just about anything imaginable -- this is where locals will send you. This self-proclaimed "casa del mofongo" adds chicken or any combination of seafood to an excellent version. You can even order it as a side alongside grilled churrasco or sautéed red snapper. The restaurant sits in Ocean Park, on the border of Isla Verde, and does delivery as well. MC, V. Closed Mon. 

Seafood is the specialty of this restaurant, one of the most popular in the Ritz-Carlton. Fresh fruit makes an appearance in many dishes, adding a distinct flavor. Start off with shrimp ceviche with a tangerine-cilantro sauce, then move on to the jerk spiced tuna steak or the red snapper baked in a banana leaf. Don't expect stuffed parrots and other paraphernalia; The elegant dining room is reminiscent of a plantation house. You can also dine outdoors on the terrace. AE, D, DC, MC, V. No dinner Sun.

The same great steaks and seafood are served here as at this popular chain's other locations, including the original in New York City. When you leave, you half expect to look up at the Brooklyn Bridge. Caricatures of local and international celebrities stare down at you from the walls. The dark wood of the bar and the other furnishings let you know that you're in for some serious dining. The 10-ounce filet mignon is relatively petite, at least when compared to the rib eye that weights in at 24 ounces. Then there's the lobster, which starts at 3 pounds and goes higher. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

Don't let the elegance fool you. The prices are truly reasonable at this restaurant far from the well-trodden areas and in a restored art-deco structure with tile floors, large picture windows, and pastel walls. The menu includes about 30 pasta dishes, all freshly made with top-quality ingredients. The basic meat lasagne is just as good as the more elaborate penne with smoked salmon and a cream sauce. AE, MC, V. Closed Sun. No dinner Mon.-Wed.

You might feel you're in the South Pacific or Bali when you take a seat at one of the bamboo tables at this romantic restaurant, especially when you see the oiled teak beams across the ceiling and the shutters that swing up to catch the breeze. The menu has a bit of a split personality -- the appetizers lean toward Caribbean favorites, whereas the entrées are mostly Mediterranean staples. It all comes together with such dishes as seared tuna with a ginger and cilantro vinaigrette or sesame-crusted salmon served on a bed of Asian vegetables. There are always several vegetarian options on the menu. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

This place has one of the most dazzling views of San Juan, especially in the evening when the city lights are twinkling. Perched atop a coastal bluff, it's at the first left once you cross the bridge into Piñones. Grab one of the tables on the deck and order some of the simple seafood dishes like octopus or king-crab salads, served in vasos or platos (glasses or plates). MC, V.

Route 325 to the end. AE, MC, V.

You can't miss this funky hangout because of its eye-catching color scheme. But behind the brilliant blue building is a great deck that looks across a bike path to the beach. There's always live music on weekends -- jazz on Saturday, something else on Friday. Other times you can just enjoy the rhythms floating out from the speakers. The menu is pretty much what you'd expect -- heavy on the seafood -- but it jazzes things up with lots of coconut and tropical fruit. MC, V.

A bit farther down the beach than its rowdier rivals, this restaurant attracts a slightly older crowd of sanjuaneros whose primary objective is eating rather than drinking. The menu is also more mature, offering such entrées as red snapper in a garlic sauce or lobster tails in lemon butter. If you can't decide, the sampler platter has everything from fried fritters to fresh oysters. You can choose a table in the dimly lighted dining room or outside on the covered patio. AE, MC, V.

If you're looking for a break from all that seafood, try this brightly painted café facing the main drag, which serves some of the town's best comida criolla. The unusual name refers to the fresh-fruit smoothies that are constantly being whipped up in the blender. If you can't decide on a flavor, take a cue from the scowling pineapple positioned over the front door. The café is open late on weekends. No credit cards.