It's not hard to find this little restaurant -- it's the one with crowds milling about on the sidewalk. If you can stand the wait -- as you undoubtedly will, since reservations aren't accepted -- then you'll get to sample chef Roberto Trevino's Latin-Asian cuisine. (For the best chance of avoiding a line, come when it opens at 6 PM.) The platos (plates) are meant to be shared, so order several for your tables. Favorites include pork-and-plantain dumplings with an orange dipping sauce, smoked-salmon pizza with wasabi salsa, and lamb spareribs with a tamarind glaze. The dining room, all done up in Chinese red, resembles an opium den. Reservations not accepted. AE, MC, V. Closed Sun. No lunch.

A handful of tables spill out onto the sidewalk at this unpretentious place overlooking Plaza Colón. There's something on the menu for everyone, from turkey breast in a mustard-curry sauce to salmon in a citrus sauce. There are even several good vegetarian dishes, including tofu in a mushroom sauce. Inside is a small bar, one of the few places in Puerto Rico that serves draft beer. AE, MC, V.

You can't miss the gorgeous stained glass on the facade of this local landmark, which was established in 1903. In the window you'll see piles of freshly baked pastries. Inside there's a long counter with salmon-colored stools and a wall lined with booths of the same interesting shade. It's extremely popular in the morning -- particularly on Sunday -- but it's open until 8:30 for lunch and dinner. All this even though the food is only average and the grumpy waiters give the appearance of having worked here since the day it opened. AE, MC, V. 

A portrait of independence leader Pedro Albizu Campos adorns the building's facade, a holdover from the days when a group of artists turned the crumbling walls of this house into the Museo sin Techo ("Roofless Museum"). Today it does have a roof, as well as a tropical-themed dining room serving radically delicious local cuisine. Look for the pumpkin and macadamia-nut ravioli or the grilled lamb on sugarcane skewers. There's an excellent wine shop on the premises, and on Tuesday and Thursday evening there's a free tasting upstairs. AE, D, MC, V. Closed Mon. 

Sanjuaneros have favored this casual, family-run restaurant for years. The conch ceviche and chicken fricassee are among the specialties on the menu of comida criollo dishes. The back porch is filled with plants, and the dining room is filled with fanciful depictions of life on the street outside. The ever-present owner, Pedro J. Ruiz, is filled with the desire to ensure that everyone is happy. Reservations not accepted. AE, MC, V. 

With black-and-white floor tiles, wood-beamed ceiling, and floral-print curtains, this two-story restaurant evokes provincial France. It has been under the same management since 1969, and with all that experience the service is smooth. Daily specials augment a menu of stellar French classics, including breast of duck with a cassis glaze and veal with a mustard cream sauce. If you want to go all out, there's the huge chateaubriand for two. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. No lunch. 

This little gem sits square in the middle of Old San Juan's up-and-coming restaurant row, known locally as SoFo (South Fortaleza Street). The menu, which combines Indian and Caribbean flavors, has traditional dishes such as tandoori chicken and inventive surprises like beef tenderloin in a casava purée. The jewel-tone interior invites you to linger, and many patrons do so for an after-dinner puff on an Asian water pipe. AE, MC, V.

Dating from 1848, La Mallorquina is thought to be the island's oldest restaurant. The menu is heavy on such basic Puerto Rican and Spanish fare as asopao (a stew with rice and seafood) and paella, but the atmosphere is what really recommends the place. Friendly, nattily attired staffers zip between tables against peach-colored walls and beneath the whir of ceiling fans. AE, MC, V. Closed Sun.

You could make a meal of the small dishes that dominate the menu at this tapas restaurant. You won't go wrong ordering the sweet sausage in brandy or the turnovers stuffed with lobsters and passing them around the table. If you're not into sharing, there are five different kinds of paella that arrive on huge plates. There's a long, lively bar inside; one dining area overlooks a pleasant courtyard, whereas the other takes in the action along Calle Cristo. Even if you have dinner plans elsewhere, consider stopping here for a nightcap. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

Loud and lively, this place is intent on making sure everyone is having a good time. You're likely to strike up a conversation with the bartender as you enjoy a passion-fruit cocktail or with the couple at the next table in the covered courtyard. Something about the atmosphere -- ear-splitting salsa music and murals of swaying palm trees -- makes connecting easy. The menu has contemporary variations of Caribbean classics. You might start with mouthwatering crabcakes or tamarind-barbecued ribs, followed by blackened tuna in a dark rum sauce or seared sea bass with lobster, leek, and scallop confit. Reservations not accepted. AE, DC, MC, V.

A well-traveled menu has earned Barú a solid reputation among sanjuaneros, so it's often crowded. The dishes, all served in medium-sized portions so you can order several and share, range from Middle Eastern to Asian to Caribbean. Favorites include oysters in a soy-citrus sauce, risotto with green asparagus, and carpaccio made from beef, tuna, or salmon. More substantial fare includes filet mignon with horseradish mashed potatoes and pork ribs with a ginger-tamarind glaze. The dining room, in a beautifully renovated colonial house, is dark and mysterious. AE, MC, V. Closed Mon. No lunch. 

A great selection of beers -- 26, to exact, including the locally brewed Medalla -- make this a popular late-night spot. Just as appealing is the dimly lighted courtyard that gives the place its name. The menu consists mostly of steaks and seafood, but there are plenty of opportunities to sample Puerto Rican fare. Save room for the flan, which melts in your mouth. There's entertainment (usually a guitarist singing old standards) every night but Sunday. AE, D, DC, MC, V.

The specialty at this old-fashioned eatery is the mallorca, a sweet pastry that's buttered, grilled, and then sprinkled with powdered sugar. Wash one down with a terrific cup of café con leche. For something more substantial, try the breakfast mallorca, which has ham and cheese. The waitstaff -- all dressed in crisp green uniforms and caps -- are friendly and efficient. MC, V. Closed Sun.

The name means "jellyfish," which explains why this ultracool, ultramodern place has lighting fixtures shaped like that sea creature. Elegantly groomed oysters and clams float on cracked ice along the raw bar. The extensive menu is alive with inventive ceviches, some with tomato or roasted red peppers and olives, and fresh takes on classics like paella. For something more filling, try dorado served with a shrimp salsa, or tuna accompanied by seafood enchiladas. You could also empty out your wallet for one of the torres del mar, or towers of the sea. This gravity-defying dish has comes hot or cold and includes oysters, mussels, shrimp -- you name it. Oh, and don't pass up the lobster mashed potatoes. Those alone are worth the trip -- and the wait. Reservations not accepted. AE, D, MC, V.

Dining in Old San Juan doesn't have to mean fighting for a table. This Mexican restaurant is the best of the string of laid-back eateries along Calle Recinto Sur. Plates of steaming hot tacos, burritos, and other reasonably authentic fare arrive at your table within minutes of placing your order. And if you want to watch the big game -- whatever that might happen to be -- it will doubtless be playing in the television over the bar. AE, MC, V.

The name is an inside joke -- it's pronounced like coup d'etat, the French term for "revolution." A bit of an exaggeration, perhaps, but the kitchen has scored more than a few victories with dishes that blend Caribbean main dishes with Asian cooking methods. That's why the steak is covered with a wasabi demiglace and the oysters are submerged is tasty green curry. The minimalist dining room is also a triumph, especially the sage-colored banquettes covered with aubergine-and-gold pillows. The black-clad staff couldn't be friendlier, and they are happy to help you negotiate the menu. AE, MC, V. 

This restaurant's succulent prawns, grilled and served with garlic butter, are supposed to be aphrodisiacs. Well, everything on the menu is rated for its love-inducing qualities. (Look out for those labeled "Ay, ay, ay!") There are some seats indoors, but opt for a seat in the walled courtyard. With brilliant purple bougainvillea tumbling down and moonlight streaming through the trees, it's one of the city's prettiest alfresco dining spots. The gregarious owner, Alberto Nazario, brother of pop star Ednita Nazario, genuinely enjoys seeing his guests satisfied. He'll sometimes take out a guitar and sing old folk songs. Don't be surprised if the locals sing along. AE, MC, V.

This colonial-era house has been transformed into something out of ancient Rome. But did those Romans ever feast on appetizers like foie gras on a bed of white onions or marinated salmon with chives? As good as these are, the main courses are even better. The ravioli stuffed with chicken liver, spinach, and black truffles are a wonder, as is the pork filet with thyme and blueberries. The extensive wine cellar, housed in the former cistern, is sure to contain the perfect complement to your meal. Everything here is discreet, from the entrance (just an awning over a doorway) to the service. MC, V. 

Ignore the tongue-in-cheek recordings of "That's Amore." Everything else in this red-walled trattoria is the real deal, from the gleaming vegetables on the antipasto table to the interesting vintages on the small but well-chosen wine list. Start with the squid stuffed with sweet sausage, then move onto the linguine with clams and pancetta or the cannelloni filled with roasted duck and topped with marscapone cheese. The plates of pasta are huge, so you might want to consider a half-order (which is more the size of a three-quarter order). Save room for -- what else? -- a tasty tiramisu. AE, MC, V.

On a quiet side street, this café has a laid-back vibe that has people coming back again and again. The food, from old family recipes, includes Puerto Rican favorites like garbanzo-bean stew flavored with ham and sausage and veal tips simmered in wine. The creamy flan has also developed quite a following. There's a small bar in back where you can sample the trademark drink, a fruity rum punch. MC, V.

This dining room seems to be blushing -- the walls and the gauzy curtains are the same shade of crimson. It has nothing to be ashamed of, as it serves some delicious grilled meats. After you select an entrée -- say, skewered shrimp or double-cut veal chops -- you can cover it with toppings ranging from a rum-peppercorn glaze to spiced butter. If you can't decide, the mixed grill has a bit of everything. The view of the Bahía de San Juan usually includes an ocean liner or two. AE, MC, V.

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